TONY Issue 369: October 24–31, 2002
As you might have guessed, this take-out shop wants to spread the word about the mighty soybean—and what better way to reach Lower East Side bar crawlers than to serve them irresistible soy-infused meals? Nearly every dish here contains soy in some form or another. Most of the time, the bean works wonders: The gyoza, a Japanese pot sticker filled with minced meat, tofu and ginger, is wonderfully aromatic, and the Wings of Soy is a creative textural combo of soy-marinated chicken wings and chips of spongy tofu in a soy-and-ginger sauce. Occasionally the soy element seems extraneous, such as in the shirsuae, steamed broccoli unnecessarily soaked in a thick tofu sauce. But the versatile bean returns to glory in the delicious soy smoothies, available in fruit flavors as well as green tea and red bean. 102 Suffolk St between Delancey and Rivington Sts (212-253-1158). Subway: F to Delancey St; J, M, Z to Delancey–Essex Sts. Dinner. Average main course: $7.